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Fifteen or so years ago, something happened. Emo — which had been a burgeoning music scene throughout the American Midwest in the 90s — infiltrated the mainstream for a melodramatic second wave, reaching every weird grey school in Britain. So what happened to those kids? They’re not doing the same thing now, are they? That guy who had to get the school nurse to cut his legs out of some size 2 white Primark jeans isn’t still buying them. Plus, second wave emo peaked in the early to mids, which means those emos are all, what, in their late twenties to early thirties now?

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Are emos, goths and rockers at increased risk of self-harm and suicide?

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What they had in common: a greater emphasis on melody, dynamics, and, yes, lyrics about feelings. What could better appeal to teenagers than a genre accused of being overly serious and painfully self-aware at the same time? Anyone or anything can be emo, and yet almost nobody claims making it. On the one hand, the genre has long been denied serious critical assessment, often dismissed as music for teens but never subject to the generous leeway or empathy given to pop music specifically designed for adolescents.

As we set out to define the parameters for this list, one guiding principle we agreed upon was to go back to the original definition whenever in doubt. The first wave starts in Washington, D. Tim Kinsella started Joan of Arc, a free-form collective that produced a mind-boggling catalogue of abstract art-rock, cultivating a diehard fan base and resonating through the scene for decades. Texas is the Reason and Mineral became the targets of seven-figure bidding wars between Jimmy Iovine and Clive Davis, and both collapsed under intraband conflict before ever making a major-label record.

People were shell-shocked at the glossier production: I honestly saw a man with a Jawbreaker tattoo weeping at the record store where I worked. But toward the end of the decade, Nothing Feels Good provided a glimpse of how emo could thrive on its own terms.

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